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May 8, 2024 at 15:21 comment converted from answer VeryStableGenius 1) Isn't the principal motion in a water wave up and down, rather than forward and backward? Doesn't this suggest that there is something else at work here... something other than crest particles moving forward relative to trough particles which are "held back" by the no-slip condition at the sea floor? 2) Would waves break in shallow water if the sea floor were infinitely slippery (in other words, NO no-slip condition - the water can slip along the sea floor without any resistance). What would waves look like in this situation as they approach the shore?
Apr 24, 2014 at 15:48 vote accept Kenshin
Apr 24, 2014 at 15:35 history edited milancurcic CC BY-SA 3.0
MathJax
Apr 23, 2014 at 1:36 review First posts
Apr 23, 2014 at 2:10
Apr 23, 2014 at 1:15 history answered milancurcic CC BY-SA 3.0